Chrome Chisel End

The chrome chisel end for the fender bumper guard came in! Huh.. Oh yeah, it’s gonna be shiny and new.. So it’ll stick out like a sore thumb on the side of the 280z – nice.

On a side note, on the site i purchased this from, they used my picture in their installation notes! That nice.. Would also be nice if they comp’d this chisel end too. Who knows how many referrals came from here to CustomAutoTrim.com

  
Installation goes in first thing tomorrow morning!


Last piece of trim

Finally!

Since the last post about installing the fender bumper guard trim nearly 3 years ago, the rear driver side quarter panel has been bare. Since then, if you recall, it’s been dinged just after purchasing the aluminum rail…purchased, not installed!

Well, Dad was out for Thanksgiving, so he and I took to it! The piece I picked up last year was a bit long, so we had to cut it to match the passenger side.

   

A simple hacksaw does the job, and a sanding block cleans off the burrs nicely.

  

Make sure the dart and chisel trim ends still fit after cutting the aluminum channel.

  

It may need a little persuasion!
  

The quarter panel already had some pre-existing holes. So I opted to use those to minimize drilling new ones into the body.

  

Dad had a smart idea of using the remaining channel with existing holes as a guide to drilling the new ones. With proper clamping, this worked wonders.
  

By just placing the rivets into their respective holes allows you to set the trim in place, and check for alignment before setting the rivets for real.. Looking good!  

Here, two new holes had to be drilled into the body panel to hold the trim in place. Starting with the dart end allowed us to align the piece before drilling one ~7″ to the left of it.
   
  

Viola! Haha keen eyes will note that the chisel end next to the door and the rubber bumper are both missing. Chrome chisel end is on order, and rubber is on deck!

 


Zpotted: Z in Entourage

I would have never given the show, Entourage, a chance if it weren’t for a friend mentioning that it was produced by Mark Wahlberg.. And he knows I’m a fan of Mark Wahlberg! He also mentioned it’s suppose to loosely resemble his life coming out to Hollywood from Boston. I’m a ways from there but being from MA, I can relate… Haha naw. Either way – love the show.
Somewhere in Season 2, the crew go visit an indie Director in a motel… Can you spot it?

A white, t-top’d 280zx!

 


Zpotted: rough white 240z

Mom and Dad spotted this white Z up in Palo Alto! 

“A little rough around the edges…”

  

Regardless, shows well in pics :)

Bumper-less, badge-less, and lowered on wide Rota Shakotans. Better yet, looks like a daily!


Cusco Strut Tower Bar for the Z

Finally, the bar goes on! Earlier this year, I ordered up a front strut tower bar (also known as a tower bar or strut bar) from Amazon – it was cheaper than the rest. But after nearly 8 months, it finally gets installed! It’s a quick and simple job, so let’s get to it!

   

Note: the bar isn’t blue…just the protective film on the chrome bar

A quick primer in case your not familiar, a strut bar is used to increase ridgity in the frame. Much like the A, B, and C pillars do for the cabin of the car, it also has the same effect on the body. With increased ridgity comes decrease in flex, and truer suspension dynamics. And with such a beautifully long hood of the 280Z, I figured, ‘why not?’. Here’s what we’ll need:

Cusco 240Z, 260Z, 280z front strut tower bar – Part#cus 246 540A

8mm Allen wrench

14mm socket / wrench (for the strut tower nuts)

17mm socket / wrench (for the tower bar)

Optional: WD-40

  

The only thing understandable here on this box label is ‘S30’ (which is partially scratched).

  

Bar came in retail packaging…and apparently instructions in Japanese with one translated line…

IMG_2140

Upon inspection the Cusco strut tower bar for the Datsun S30 Z is a very nicely made piece – welds are uniform, polish is good, machined nice. Overall, it’s a well constructed tower bar that feels well constructed.

IMG_2139 

Let’s get to work! (Jarritos optional :] )

  

Start by taking off the existing nuts with the 14mm. Mine had been rusted on there so I let them soak in WD-40 while gawking at the tower bar. Then coerced them off with a hammer. Once off, you can put the bar on the towers, then washers and nuts. Prior to putting on the bar, use the Allen and 17mm to loosen the blue plate from the bar. Only loosely hand-tighten the nuts on one side before setting the other side, so it’s easier to adjust / fit before tightening it all down.

Now let’s talk clearance. Wow…

  

I thought I was screwed. The strut tower bar for the Z was already designed with tight tolerances in mind: it already has a narrow oval / box cross section in the bar itself, and see how it curves just over the engine. Above, I’m slowly closing the hood to see if it’ll close!

  

This one piece lightly touchs the bar..
   While others have a very close up view of the tower bar. Presto! The bar is installed! Now to take it out for a spin on those twisty roads…

 


Zpotted: 240z…in MA!

Now THERE’S two words hardly found in the same sentence! Rarely does a Datsun model meet a Northeast state!

This one is definitely a survivor from another state, and none of the typical rust showing in the dogleg panels.

I love hidden gems like these!

  


240z…L!

Anyone heard of the 240ZL?

I’ve heard of the ZG (g-nose racer), and the 432 (4 valves, 3 carbs, 2 camshafts), but a ZL? Interesting!

Here’s a short clip of the rare model, it’s owner, and just dreamy shots of it along the CA coast. Note the rear spoiler, very sweet vintage racing seats, rare race clock (i want oooonnnne!), and right hand drive. Thanks to my Gee cuz, Jackie for sending this over!


a 280z restoration one morning at a time

a 280z restoration one morning at a time

Dirty S30

a 280z restoration one morning at a time

mister240z

Looking through the lens with rods and cones.

hungry4horsepower

life on wheels

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